Here is the free pattern for my summer cocoon cardigan. I hope you enjoy it as much as I do enjoy sharing it with you 🙂 Happy crochet!
- Ecocoton Phildar: 750 m / 820 yards (7 balls) in cream color, and 1 ball of each color you want to use for the stripes for a size Medium. I used 4 colors : purple, blue, yellow and red. This Phildar yarn has a matte finish and comes in muted colors, that’s what I like about it.
- Yarn characteristics: 110 m / 120 yards for 50 grams. Fine, number 2 yarn.
- Hook: 3 mm (closest size is US D hook)
- Measuring tape
- Tapestry needle
You can use any other cotton yarn available and any color scheme you like.
Gauge isn’t that important for this project, I still share it if you want your cardigan to look the same.
2.5 inch = 7 filet stitches (1 DC + 1 CH), 6 rows.
Read before you start!
This cardigan takes some time to make, due to the small size of the hook and yarn. Other cocoon cardigans are usually crocheted with bulky yarn so they grow faster. Please be patient, the result is worth it. This pattern doesn’t require counting stitches, so it’s allright to watch a good TV series meanwhile 🙂
You will crochet a big square, it follows the same principles as a granny square, only this on is in filet (mesh) stitch. It makes it lighter, for the spring / summer, and gives a very nice drape.
Please remember to turn your work between each row, this is very important.
I didn’t block the cardigan, I didn’t feel it was necessary. If you want to block it, I suggest you do it before shaping the sleeves.
The written instructions are given for an adult S/M size. You may make it smaller or bigger by simply adding or substracting rows, as I will explain further below. I need to check for any adjustments needed for a plus-size fit, I’m working on it, will update ASAP 🙂
Last but not least, note that this cardigan doesn’t close in the front. If you want to sew a button and have the possibility to close the cardigan, you will have to make it larger, thus obtaining a looser fit. I wanted mine to be fitted.
- CH : chain
- SL ST : slip stitch
- DC : double-crochet
- HDC : half double-crochet
Start: CH 4, SL ST in 4th chain from the hook.
Row 1 :
CH 4. DC in circle, * CH 3, DC in circle, CH 1, DC in circle * (3 times), CH 3, SL ST in 3rd chain from the beginning of row 1.
Row 2 :
CH 4, turn. DC in corner (the chain-3 space from previous row), CH 3, DC in same corner, * CH 1, DC on top of previous row next DC, CH1, DC, CH1, DC in corner, CH 3, DC in corner * (3 times), CH 3, DC, CH 1, SL ST in 3rd chain from the beginning of this row.
Row 3 and next:
CH4, turn. Keep doing the filet stitch by alternating DC and CH1. In each corner you will make DC, CH3, DC. And again CH, DC, CH, DC, CH… until next corner.
I did 41 rows, I obtained a 84 cm / 33 inch square. It is a bit smaller than the usual cocoon cardigan tutorials. That’s how I like to wear it, I don’t want my cardigan to be too long. Also I crochet on the loose side and I know my garments tend to stretch.
Finishing your square:
- I like to weave in yarn ends at this stage, but you can do it at the end.
- I choose which side will be the right and the wrong one, and I choose which is the top edge: I put a stitch marker where the label would be.
- Reminder: you may want to block your work now (I didn’t).
Trying on, adjuting size, shaping sleeves:
I tried it on several times in the process to reach desired size.
Lay your square flat. Fold the 4 corners toward the center. Sleeves are formed by closing where I put the green and the red hooks.
To try it on, I use this kind of hair pins to secure the sleeves.
You may also use stitch markers, safety pins… I like hair pins because they don’t damage the yarn.
Place the piece on the shoulders, don’t wear it higher on the neck, since we will add a border (see pictures below) :
Your square should fall about 2 inches before the underbutt area, under the largest hip circonference. Am I making sense here? Haha I wish, tell me otherwise 😀 I don’t want the cardigan to hang too low, because I know it will stretch under its own weight. The sleeve must reach after your elbow.
Shaping the sleeves:
Work on the cardigan’s wrong side. Position the two layers precisely on top of one another.
I use the slip stitch, but you can sew with the tapestry needle if you prefer this method.
Insert hook in the second chain of both corners, draw up a loop, chain 1.
Then slip stitch in the front loop only of each layer (the loop closest to you). This gives a flat, discreet finish.
On the next picture, the red needle shows where to insert hook.
Slip stitch for about 8.5 inches. A little bit more for the thinner arms and small sizes, a little bit less for wider arms. The best it to try it on and make it perfect for you, you may like wider or narrower sleeves and that’s allright 🙂
End work on a DC preferably.
At this stage, you obtain this:
The striped border :
The border is 2.5 inch wide.
This is how I did:
Row 1 : in beige: HDC all around.
Row 2 : purple : HDC all around.
Row 3 : red : DC all around.
Row 4 : blue: HDC all around.
Row 5 : yellow: DC all around.
Row 6 : blue: HDC all around.
Row 7 : red: DC all around.
Row 8 : purple: HDC all around. Sleeves are finished, cut yarn, end work.
Row 9 is optional and around the body only : in purple, SL ST all around. Cut yarn, end work.
You can change the border using any other stitch combination you like.
Admire the result and congratulate yourself, you’re done 😀
Take pictures and share them 😀 I’d love to see your summer cocoon cardigans. I will create a Ravelry page for your projects.
If you have any questions, please use the comment section.
If you detect any spell check or any other problems with my English translation, please inform me so I can correct the pattern.
This is a free pattern. You may do as many cardigans as you want and give or sell them. Don't redistribute this pattern whether for free or for a fee, don't copy, well, just be nice :)